Swayambhunath – The Eyes Over Kathmandu

In the early morning light, the golden tower of the Swayambhunath Stupa shimmered above the hills of Kathmandu. The sky behind it was still dark, and it was this very contrast that drew us in. From a distance, the stupa glowed like a promise – and so we began our ascent in the year 1994, step by step, towards its radiant light.

A Sacred Place for Buddhists and Hindus

Swayambhunath is one of the oldest sacred sites in Nepal, probably founded in the 5th century. Although the stupa is a Buddhist monument, many Hindus also come here to offer prayers. The entire complex beautifully reflects how closely both religions intertwine in Nepal – sharing rituals, symbols, and a common sense of the eternal within change.

The great white dome rests on a circular base, crowned by a golden tower painted with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha – a symbol of wisdom, compassion, and awareness. Between the eyes is the Nepali numeral “१” (1), signifying unity and insight. Above it rises a canopy representing protection and enlightenment – the ultimate goal of the spiritual path.

A Place of Stillness and Motion

Climbing the 365 steps up the hill, the air was filled with the sound of prayer wheels turning and the soft murmur of Om Mani Padme Hum. Among pilgrims, monks, and curious monkeys, a unique stillness unfolded – not the silence of absence, but of movement. Amid wind, bells, and fluttering prayer flags, this place felt alive, a breath between heaven and earth.

The Symbolism of the Gaze

The eyes of the stupa seem to see everything: the city, the mountains, the sky, and the person standing before them. For many visitors, they become a mirror – a gaze that does not watch, but reminds. Perhaps this is the secret of Swayambhunath: that the gaze turns inward, to where awareness and stillness become one.

A Moment of Light

As the sun rose higher and the gilded spire caught the light, everything seemed to pause for a moment. Kathmandu lay in shadow while the summit shone above. A scene of rare beauty – a connection beyond time, faith, and language. The eyes over Kathmandu remain – watchful, wise, and still.