Daimonji – Along the Higashiyama Trail to Kyoto’s Mountain of Light

Our days in Kyoto had been filled with impressions – temples, encounters, colors, and sounds. To let all those experiences settle, we decided to spend a quiet day in the surrounding mountains, hiking and searching for a few geocaches hidden along the ridges.

We took the train eastward and got off when the first forests appeared. Passing through an old brick tunnel, we reached what looked like a small, long-abandoned boatyard and began following the Higashiyama Trail uphill. The path climbed steadily beside a stream, and before long we arrived at the Himukai Daijingu Shrine – a quiet, mystical place built into the rock.

There, a small cave marks a symbolic passage: the Amano-Iwato, which you enter and exit while visiting the shrine – as if walking through the mountain itself to emerge changed on the other side.

The weather was perfect for photography. Sunbeams filtered through the forest canopy, lighting up moss-covered stones, and the higher we climbed, the wider the view became. Kyoto lay below us beneath drifting clouds, pierced by thousands of shafts of light that made the city appear almost unreal.

We met joggers and hikers along the way – silent companions of the trail. One of them told us that we had reached the Daimonji area, where the huge character 「大」 (dai, meaning “great”) is carved into the slope. Every year on August 16, during the Gozan Okuribi Festival, fires are lit in this shape to bid farewell to the spirits of the ancestors. From this height, the symbol can be seen across the entire city, glowing like a message between worlds.

By the time we returned, the afternoon sun had turned the forest gold. It was a long day in the hills of Kyoto – quiet, luminous, unforgettable – ending with the familiar sweetness of our favorite confectionery near the hotel.

Information & Travel Tips

• Location: Higashiyama Trail, eastern mountains of Kyoto

• Highest point: Nyoigatake / Daimonji-yama (466 m)

• Distance: Approx. 6 km round trip, 2–3 hours walking time

• Route: From the old “boatyard” area via the Himukai Daijingu Shrine (with the Amano-Iwato cave passage) up to the Daimonji fire plateau

• Highlights: Part of the Kyoto Trail; mix of nature, spirituality, and history; superb city views

• Festival: The Gozan Okuribi (“Mountain Bonfire”) on August 16, when the character 「大」 is illuminated across Kyoto

• Best time: Spring or autumn, early morning or late afternoon for the best light

• Photo tip: From the fire terrace, use a short telephoto lens (70–100 mm) to capture Kyoto’s skyline through the haze and light beams